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Update Setup Documentation

steeb 2024-08-06 14:32:35 -07:00
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Setup-Documentation.md

@ -155,9 +155,9 @@ If you are just importing the PrusaSlicer profile, these changes to the START G-
## Z Offset
[Official documentation link](https://www.klipper3d.org/Probe_Calibrate.html)
**NOTE:** I've hda to re-adjust the Z offset fairly frequently, sometimes between each print. It's not a large task, but I'm unsure if there's an issue with either the probe or the bed screws or the bed itself - just do not rely on this to be accurate over a large amount of time!
**NOTE:** I've hda to re-adjust the Z offset fairly frequently, sometimes between each print. It's not a large task, but I'm unsure if there's an issue with either the probe or the bed screws or the bed itself - just do not rely on this to be accurate over a large amount of time! **ADDENDUM:** Please note that this is not as big of a deal anymore since KAMP has been enabled in the firmware -- a new, temporary mesh will be generated for every print. It's still a good idea to check the Z offset regularly - especially after adjusting the bed in any way or when swapping nozzles.
Home all axes and then enter <code>PROBE_CALIBRATE</code> into the command line. From there, adjust the Z offset in small increments using the on-screen arrows until it is close enough to the bed that you feel resistance when you drag a sheet of paper below it. You just need to feel enough drag to be noticeable - it doesn't need to put up resistance
Home all axes and then enter <code>PROBE_CALIBRATE</code> into the command line. From there, adjust the Z offset in small increments using the on-screen arrows until it is close enough to the bed that you feel resistance when you drag a sheet of paper below it. You just need to feel enough drag to be noticeable - it doesn't need to scratch or put up a fight.
## Bed Leveling
[Official documentation link](https://www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html)
@ -167,7 +167,7 @@ Once the Z offset is set, you can now manually level the be by entering <code>BE
## Bed Mesh Calibration
[Official documentation link](https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html)
Bed meshing is now handled automatically on every print by KAMP. It creates a smaller mesh of only the area you'll be printing on, meaning they are **much** more accurate.
Bed meshing is now handled automatically on every print by KAMP. It creates a smaller mesh of only the area you'll be printing on, meaning they are **much** more accurate. See the GitHub repo for KAMP for further documentation and customization.
## ...and the rest.
These are things that need to be set up but not done as frequently.
@ -175,7 +175,7 @@ These are things that need to be set up but not done as frequently.
### Pressure Advance
[Official documentation link](https://www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html)
Most guides say to run this for every filiment you use. I use the same pressure advance settings for each *type* of filament -- PLA, PETG, ABS, etc.
Most guides say to run this for every filament you use. I use the same pressure advance settings for each *type* of filament -- PLA, PETG, ABS, etc.
### Resonance Compensation
[Official documentation link](https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html)
@ -184,6 +184,19 @@ From what I've read (and my experience), this really only needs to be done if th
**Later edit:** Resonance testing showed barely any ringing at all. I haven't actually performed any adjustments, as a result.
# What should you be printing with?
## Filaments
### What works
PLA and PETG have both printed very nicely on this machine. I have a strong preference for PETG as it seems to stick better to most surfaces and it can withstand much higher temperatures (so you can leave things in your car without them melting.) PLA is usually considered the "beginner friendly" filament, but frankly I think it's because it probably prints more easily on cheaper machines that can't run as high of temperatures. The Ender 3 Pro can get plenty hot, plenty fast.
The included "steeb's filament" profiles have been tested pretty extensively and should work well for most prints. I didn't do a lot of work with overhangs and pressure advance and rotational distance for the extruder was only set with PLA, though it seems to work quite well with PETG as well.
Pricing is fairly similar between the two materials.
### What don't
Nothing else has been tested on this machine. Whereas TPU should be printable (as long as speeds are turned waaayyyy down, since it's a very goopy and flexible material), other materials like ASA or ABS would require an enclosure to trap heat in and *also* generate a smell that seems like it might shorten your life pretty considerably. There are plenty of guides out there for building enclosures and filtration systems out of IKEA furniture that look like they'd work quite well.
Of the unsupported filaments, ABS is the most likely that you'll look into printing with, as it has the highest temperature and chemical tolerances of most printable materials, although there are also lots of PETG filaments that have been adulterated with things like carbon fiber and fiberglass that create plenty strong materials without the extra investment.
# Recommended upgrades for the future
## Solid bed
I tried to add silicone spacers to create a more "solid" bed, but it just absolutely ruined the ability to level it out. I'm not certain this is truly doable without completely replacing the bed itself.